Introduction: From the Cold to the Caribbean

We left Denver at 5 AM on a Tuesday morning in March, stepping into the bitter cold of late winter, the kind that seeps into your bones. A thin layer of snow dusted the tarmac as we boarded our flight, a lengthy wait for de-icing as the crews ramped up for the day ahead and the darkness outside reflecting the hour. I always think that working the de-icing crews at Denver Airport must be one of the worst jobs, sitting there in a tiny freezing cab hosing planes full of people down with a foul smelling liquid, wondering where those people are off to and wishing it was you on that plane. We had a connecting flight and by the time we reached Houston, the city was starting to wake, its skyline coming into focus in the early morning light. But it was Belize City that truly jolted us into another world. The moment we stepped off the plane, we were met with a wall of heat, the sticky embrace of the tropics, and the sound of a thousand things happening at once—a symphony of chatter, car horns, and clashing radios blasting various music genres. It’s these type of trips that start in one climate and end in another very different that remind you of the benefit of dressing in layers when traveling…

First Impressions of Belize: British, Yet Not Quite

A quick hop on Tropic Air, more of a bus service than an airline, took us from Belize City to Placencia. When we arrived we had a 4 -hour wait for our connection but the guy at the boarding desk was quite clear, for $20 US in cash, he could get us on the flight leaving in 30 minutes. $20 well spent. It felt like stepping back in time—the tiny airstrip, the laid-back airport staff, the pilot who greeted each passenger personally and assessed where they should sit on the plane according to their size.. As we skimmed over endless shades of blue, and through deep grey clouds, we began to grasp the geography of Belize: a country shaped by its barrier reef, its cays, and its deep connection to the sea. But it wasn’t the tropical beauty that first struck us—it was the Britishness of it all. English is the official language, Queen Elizabeth’s face still peers out from the currency, and the legal system is a relic of the empire. Yet, despite the remnants of colonial rule, Belize is distinctly Caribbean, its rhythms dictated by the sea, its people unfazed by the urgency of the outside world.

Placencia: A Town of Resilience

Placencia, the small fishing town and launching point for our Belize yacht charter with The Moorings, still bore the scars of Hurricane Lisa. Palm trees leaned at odd angles, buildings showed the telltale signs of hasty repairs, and conversations carried an undercurrent of resilience. Yet, life carried on. The town buzzed with fishermen hauling in the morning’s catch, tourists sipping Belikin beer, and vendors selling fresh fruit under canopies of faded tarps. We spent a night in Placencia before picking up our charter yacht, there are plenty of hotels to chose from at a very reasonable cost. We stayed at the the Ocean Breeze resort which was just a short taxi ride away from the Moorings yacht charter base. It was very clean and comfortable and great value at $200 including taxes.

The Moorings Base: A Lesson in Laid-Back Efficiency

At The Moorings base, the welcome was relaxed to the point of nonchalance. The staff seemed exhausted, their movements unhurried, their faces lined with the easy fatigue of those who deal with yacht charter guests daily. Instructions were given in a slow drawl, forms exchanged with a weary efficiency. The message was clear: you’re in Belize now—slow down.

We took a crewed charter on a 3-cabin Lagoon 45. A beautiful new boat, less than a year old. The crew consisted of a Captain and a Cook, we love sailing with a Captain who knows the area, we learn so much from them. And we usually like to cook along with the Cook, again learning new things and sharing some of our favorite recipes with them. Provisioning the boat was a mission. Unlike in Greece or the BVI (places we have recently chartered), where resupplying along the way is easy, in Belize, you need everything upfront. There are no supermarkets on the cays. Our cook took us shopping, guiding us through vegetable markets, bakeries, and supermarkets, the latter offering only frozen meat, an echo of an era before refrigeration was common. It reminded me of my childhood, when my mother would return from a weekly shop with a car bursting at the seams, the week’s meals planned out with military precision.

Our Crew: The People Who Made the Trip

Our captain was a big Caribbean man in his 30s, his gammy leg a story he never fully explained. What he did explain, often and with great pride, was his ability to catch lobster—and he was right. Every evening, he’d return from a quick dive with an armful of fresh lobster and fish, his triumph celebrated with cold beers and laughter.

Our cook was larger than life, a woman who could command a galley like a general. Her skills? Belizean cuisine and gin drinking—not much else. But what she cooked, she cooked well, and despite our longing for the fresh, vibrant food we’d enjoyed on charters in Greece and the BVI, we came to love her fried everything—especially her fry jacks, the best we’d ever had. And, as it turned out, every charter crew we encountered seemed to be related to her. “That’s my cousin,” she’d say, pointing at another boat, then another. The charter industry in Belize, it seemed, was a family affair.

Sailing in Belize: A Journey Through the Cays

Each cay we visited felt like a world unto itself.

• Whipray Caye: A fishing haven, the kind of place where a man with a sun-weathered face serves fresh snapper at a rickety bar.
• South Water Caye: White sands, turquoise shallows, and snorkeling that felt like swimming through an aquarium.
• Coco Plum Caye: Tranquility defined, where the only sound at night was the lapping of the sea.
• Lagoon Caye: A hidden gem, its mangroves offering a kayaker’s paradise.
• Pelican Caye: Coral formations teeming with life, from neon parrotfish to lazy nurse sharks.
• Ranguana Caye: The quintessential desert island, a single bar serving cold drinks under a thatched roof.

Note to travelers – pack plenty of sunscreen (the reef safe type) we were surprised how difficult it was to buy sunscreen in Placencia or on the Cays, most likely because of it’s impact on the marine environment.

The Runaways: The Expats of the Cays

At every stop, we met them—the runaways from British or American life, the ones who had escaped to these isolated outposts, setting up beach bars and guesthouses in places barely big enough to sustain them. Were they searching for paradise or running from something? Life on a tiny cay, with no shops, limited communication, and the constant battle against the elements, didn’t seem easy. And yet, they were there, serving rum punch with a knowing smile, watching the world sail by.

A Belize Vacation Unlike Any Other

Compared to Greece and the BVI, Belize offered a completely different sailing experience. There, the food is fresh and bursting with Mediterranean flavors; here, it’s fried and filling. There, you find cosmopolitan marinas; here, you anchor off tiny islands where you cook what you catch. Belize forces you to adapt, to slow down, to go with it.

The Best Month to Travel to Belize: Why March is Ideal

March, the tail end of Belize’s sailing season, turned out to be perfect. Fewer boats, less crowded anchorages, and the last of the trade winds before the summer heat takes hold. The holiday crowds were gone, leaving behind a quieter, more intimate experience.

Final Thoughts: Go With It

Belize isn’t for everyone. It’s rougher around the edges, more laid-back, less polished. But if you embrace its quirks, you’re rewarded with unspoiled beauty, unforgettable characters, and an experience unlike any other. A Belize yacht charter isn’t just a sailing trip—it’s a lesson in letting go, in moving with the rhythm of the sea, in understanding that paradise isn’t perfect, but that’s exactly what makes it special.